Wetlander is a very slick and durable boat bottom coating for shallow water boats, skiffs, and all flat bottom jon boats. And, it has great adhesion to both aluminum and fiberglass.
Wetlander is for serious outdoor sportsmen. Whether you’re hunting ducks out of a jon boat, pulling steelhead from a drift boat, tearing through backwaters in a mudboat, or slipping through hidden glades on an airboat, Wetlander can get you there better and faster. From the Pacific Northwest to the Florida panhandle, boaters need an easy to apply, hard and slippery bottom paint that allows their boats to get past any obstacle without fear of getting slowed down or stuck. With Wearlon Wetlander technology, you can make your boat better than it was before…
Better. Stronger. Faster.
Wetlander is being used by thousands of boaters and boat builders for 6 reasons:
1.) Super Slick: A picture is worth a thousand words:
Anti-Friction coating technology has seen major advances since the old school days of using “filler” methods to help decrease friction. The method of adding in fillers such as teflon dust, graphite powder, or free silicones and oils is truly a vacuum tube technology far down on the evolutionary scale of anti-friction coatings. Free silicones, waxes, soaps and oils bloom to the surface of coatings and quickly wear away with abrasion. Teflon and graphite dust offer minimal improvement against friction. Wetlander does not rely on fillers, but rather uses Wearlon patented technology wherein the entirety of the coating is extremely slick. Sprinkling graphite dust on Wetlander would be like sprinkling it on ice: it would only slow you down.
2.) Durable: Wetlander is a tough, durable, and protective coating with powerful adhesion; it will not crack or chip off. And since the coefficient of friction for Wetlander is incredibly low, it helps that much more to avoid scraping, gouging and abrading, compromising seals, rivets, seams and the entire hull. You can see in the pictures below how applying Wetlander over your seams and rivets not only helps seal the rivet, but it also causes the rivet to be less exposed, and therefore less vulnerable to catch on something and tear open a leak.
The video below illustrates just how tough and flexible Wetlander is…
3.) Flexibility + Strong Adhesion: One of the failure points of conventional boat coatings is the combination of poor adhesion and lack of flexibility. The bottoms of both fiberglass and aluminum boats flex with heavy use. Your bottom coating needs to be able to flex with it. And the bottom coating adhesion needs to be strong enough to remain glued to your hull, no matter the degree of expansion and contraction. If a bottom coating is not flexible, and/or has subpar adhesion, it will crack and fall off in chunks. Wetlander is both flexible and has strong adhesion, so it will never crack or chip off.
4.) Easy to apply and touch up: Although Wetlander is an advanced industrial coating, it goes on just like a paint – just roll or spray it on. Quick and easy to apply with basic minimal prep, Wetlander goes on smooth without drips and sags and adheres tenaciously to aluminum, fiberglass, gel coats and most pre-existing hull coatings. If you ever need to touch up some spots on your hull, it’s easy with Wetlander. Just roughen up the area with some sandpaper, wipe with water, and then apply more Wetlander. No need to pull your motor, rigging and hardware off. Just tip the boat up (or leave it on the trailer) and roll on more Wetlander. You can easily roll it on upside down.
5.) Wetlander outperforms all other slick bottom paints and coatings: Faster speeds, slicker bottoms, and easier launching makes people happy, and they let us know: We receive glowing testimony from our customers. You can read great reviews and testimonies on our boat specific pages, i.e. jonboatcoatings.com, driftboatcoatings.com, mudboatcoatings.com, jetboatcoatings.com, duckboatcoatings.com, and airboatcoatings.com. We’d also encourage people to do their own research on hunting & fishing websites and online forums to get an objective perspective on Wetlander. JTgatoring, an independent product reviewer for all things jonboat, mudboat, and gator hunting, recently did an evaluation on Wetlander. See- https://www.jtgatoring.com/wetlander-slick-bottom-coating-before-and-after/. And here’s the video he posted on his YouTube channel.
6.) Specially engineered by Plastic Maritime Corp, a longstanding and distinguished company: For over three decades PMC has been on the technological forefront within the waterbased industrial coatings class for achieving optimal results in areas of nonstick, anti-friction, hydrophobics, and water drag resistance. This unique coating is better known as Wearlon®. Our Wearlon Speedcoat-49 is being used by champion boat racing teams to win races and set world records. And leisure boaters value both the fuel consumption savings and the foul-release properties Wearlon marine coatings offer. Since PMC introduced “Wetlander”, our shallow water boat coating line, it has become a best selling national brand for this market. Wetlander was specifically engineered by our R &D team to create a perfect fit for extreme shallow water boaters; a coating that is slick, durable and reduces friction.
I have been searching for a product to help make a backyard pond slide slippery and fast. It is about 60 ft long and the kids stop about 1/2 way down. It is fiberglass and powdercoated.
Would your product work?
Absolutely! We have coated many backyard and park slides. Your kids will FLY down the slide after some Wetlander. Call me directly at (518) 469-3612 and I can give you some suggestions.
I will tell you from experience, yes it would work but I must warn you to be very careful. I use this stuff on my boat and unless it is sitting on flat ground it will not stay in one spot.
Waylonthebikeguy thank you for your response. I used Wetlander on the slide. I applied by rolling on and had no sagging issues. The slide is now usable and the kids had a blast on it all summer
I have been looking for a product to make a 60 ft pond slide slippery and fast. Would this product work on a fiberglass slide?
Hi Scott. I have an aluminium car top with usual leaky rivits. Some of the rivits I have covered with in Jb weld. Can I apply Wetlander over them or do they need to be cleaned to metal. Thanks
During your surface prep, just treat the JB weld like you would the rest of the aluminum: sand with 150 grit, wipe with acetone, then apply your Wetlander. You will have no Wetlander to JB Weld adhesion isssues.
Almost to the 2 year mark with the wet lander XL!!! It has served me quite well in the Louisiana Marsh. 2 weeks ago we were hit with monumental rainfall and our lands turned to mostly water. Because of your product I was able to cross some sections of land with no standing water. It was simply amazing to witness this first hand in my boat. I picked up and transported an estimated 50 people plus pets and belongings that Sunday alone. Without your product on my boat I would not have been nearly as effeciant. I will be ordering it again, my boat took quite a beating on the underside.
17′ express with 36 hp pro-drive.
The Cajun Navy! Glad things worked out so well, and on behalf of humans everywhere – thank you for your efforts.
Been reading up on wetlander and I’d like to redo the bottom of my driftboat. Just curious if I should be looking at the 3 part kit: 2 primers plus topcoat-or if the 2 part kit, primer + topcoat will do the trick. I have a 16 foot x 54″ driftboat. I float mostly cobble and bedrock bottom rivers in Southwestern Oregon…Rogue, Chetco, etc.
Also, if therever is anything leftover, I’m wondering if I could apply it to the bottom of my polyethylene sea kayak? Maybe a little sanding of the plastic and a quick strip of wetlander down the keel for when it gets dragged on sand when launching. Think wetlander will stick?
The wife and I live in Maine and have a 25′ Crest XRS pontoon boat with a 140 HP outboard. Occasionally we’ll “explore” some pretty tight streams and rivers with it (I’ve surprised a lot of people with how maneuverable the boat is).
Have you ever tested Wetlander on a pontoon boat? Did it help at all with top speed?
We have put both Wetlander and Speedcoat-49 on pontoons. Speedcoat-49 is best on pontoons that stay in a slip, get fouled easily, and are looking for the highest possible top speed.
Wetlander is best for ‘toons that are slipping through tight spots, beaching, and/or getting hung up in floating veg.
Both coatings help with increasing top speed; Speedocat-49 is technically the better of the two in reducing drag in water.
Will wetlander go on carbon fused epoxy resin?
Could your product be used to apply to the surface of a drive on floating boat dock such as a “Safe Haven Retreat 2”?
Adding Wetlander to any surface where people will be walking is NOT a good idea. It is way too slick; people will get hurt.
Building a wood drift and wondering if this will work for the bottom. I’ve been unable to locate any info for wood surfaces
We ahve alot of wood drift boaters using Wetlander. So- yes, Wetlander will work well on a wooden drift boat. I would encourage you to add at least one layer of fiberglass and resin to the bottom of the boat before adding the Wetlander. Protecting that wood is Job #1.
Thank you, applied at its awesome!
Color chart, visual.
How long before I can put my boat back on the trailer? Its been curing in a 70° , heated garage for a few days now.
I like to wait as long as possible; 5-7 days is best. However, you can put it back on the trailer sooner, if you HAVE to. Just understand that an uncured coating is a soft coating. The best test for deciding if it is ready for trailering is to press, scrape, and scratch the coating with your fingernail. If it makes a dent, you should wait another 24 hours. If there is no damage or impression, go ahead and trailer it.
Thank you for the quick response. Love the product!!
I read about some kind of slick, plastic bottom coating in Practical Sailor last year. In my search to find it on the net, I came across Wetlander. Do you know if it was mentioned in Practical Sailor? We have a 43′ sailboat on Puget Sound. Could we use Wetlander on our hull? I noticed that use on flat bottom boats is specified, but flexibility of the product is emphasized so it seems like it might work.
I’m not sure if we were in Practical Sailor or not; it is entirely possible. You could use Wetlander on any boat hull whether it’s fiberglass, gelcoat, aluminum, sailboat, canoe, kayak, or pontoon. However, it is important to know what your primary goal for coating the hull is… We have another coating called Speedcoat-49 that may be more appropriate for you application than Wetlander, depending on your goals. The best bet would be to give me a call directly at 518-469-3612 and we can talk at length about what you are trying to achieve.
Can you use this product on a sailboat in the Pacific northwest
Yes. Wetlander is fine in salt water, but for most sailboats I recommend our Speedcoat-49 product, which is a better fouling preventative (aka non-stick) coating, which tends to be more suitable to sailboats.
Will this product adhere and work to improve a poly. Kayaks speed in salt water?
Sorry, but the plastic in those kayaks does not allow for adequate adhesion with most coatings, Wetlander included. It won’t stay on long enough to be of value to you.
will this product help to eliminate ice build up?
I’m going to need more information to accurately answer this question… Are we talking about boats here, or something else? Wetlander is a far better icephobic surface than aluminum or gelcoat, but we have much better ice release coatings in our Wearlon arsenal. Please call me at 518-469-3612 if you would like to discuss your specific situation.
I am redoing my 13 foot jet boat. I fish a river which has many many rocks. UMHW is to heavy and polyurea is to expencive. Should I use a priemer coat like Blue Max bottom protector and then apply the Wetlander. Bottom has had many hits and is not uniform, but still gets the job done.I need something that will take a licking and keep in ticking. Rober5t
I would prefer you not use another primer with Wetlander; I tend not to trust other primers, especially on aluminum. They are far too brittle to withstand the flexion of an aluminum boat hull.
For your situation, I would recommend a 3-Layer kit. If you wear through to the aluminum over the course of your travels, just touch it up as needed with a quart of Topcoat.
How much would I need for my Jon boat, 16feet X 52 inches on the bottom
If it was my boat, I would get a 2-Layer kit in Half-gallons. Every drop is slippery and it gets you the most bang for your buck.
I have an old riveted boat that I just purchased and i wanted to coat the bottom to prevent any leaky rivets because I noticed that alot of them have silicone on them. I live in louisiana so alot of swampy water here with alot of hidden debris. You kind of see why I am interested. What preparation would I have to do and what kit do you recommend me purchasing
Prep for an old aluminum boat is to clean up the hull with 100-150 grit sandpaper. Get it down to bare, clean and shiny aluminum. Hit the rivets and seams with a wire wheel if you need to. If you have leaky rivets, weld them, replace them, or use 5200 marine grade caulk to seal them up. Then apply your Wetlander; either a 2-Layer Kit or a 3-Layer kit, whatever works best for you.
I am building an aluminium airboat in New Zealand.
I will be using it in a harbour so will be crossing sand bars and mud as we live on an island in the middle of the harbour.
It is 8ft wide(2.4m) x 20 ft long(6m)
How much do I need?
What is the cost?
Will you send to me?
My email is email@example.com
Contact Paul Mullan at firstname.lastname@example.org. He is a kiwi and our southern hemisphere Wetlander dealer. He has all kits in stock and can get it to you ASAP. You can also contact him at +61 2 9484 8444.
A boat that size is going to need gallon sized containers, by my reckoning.
I will contact him tomorrow as today is a holiday.
I have a mud boat and we use it on the river. It gets very shallow with gravel and sand. Sometimes only a couple of inches in my aluminum johnboat get stuck. How does your product compare to you HMW I have a mud boat and we use it on the river. It gets very shallow with gravel and sand. Sometimes only a couple of inches in my aluminum johnboat get stuck. How does your product compare to UHMW sheets ? Will it work well against the gravel ?
Compared to UHMW polymer sheets, Wetlander is more flexible, much less expensive, easier to apply, easier to repair if damaged, much lighter and MUCH slicker. However, Wetlander can never have the same impact resistance that UHMW has. So, if you are a boulder basher – UHMW might be the way to go.
Oh yeah… no need to drill hundreds of holes in your boat to apply Wetlander. It’s worth it just for that, I think.
You mention speedcoat 49 it seems like a great product but is it as durable as the wet Lander. I would like to use it on my flats boat. I spend a lot of time in a ft or less water and the bottom sometimes drags through sand, shells and small stones. I would like it to look its best and I’m assuming the speedcoat 49 looks nicer and it was recommended over the wet Lander for the sailboat for that reason
I recommend Speedcoat-49 for sailboats because sailboats are most concerned with reducing drag. NOT because it looks better than the Wetlander when applied. With either Wetlander or Speedcoat-49, if aesthetics are your prime goal, then you should spray the product for the smoothest coat possible. I always recommend Wetlander for flats boats, due to the inherent shallow water, oyster shells and sand bars.
Can it seal cracks in bayliner trophy gelcoat?
Yes, and no. Slight hairline cracks are no problem (you should try and buff them out with some sandpaper first, if you are so inclined). Big, thick fissures that go down into the fiberglass mesh? Those would need to be re-gelcoated (in my opinion).
I’m interested in using your product on a ski boat. The main reason would be to protect the bottom and bow when I beach the boat. Thoughts?
Not a problem. Wetlander will work well on a ski boat. Constant abrasion (beaching on dry sand) over long periods of time may wear the Wetlander, so be prepared to touch up as necessary.
Can you put colored, say bright red metal flake in with the 2 part black kit?
I would advise against adding any metal flake to the Wetlander. We haven’t tested metal flake in our coatings, and as a result I am not going to encourage our customers to use it.
Maybe some testing is in order…
Can you use this on the bottom of a rotomolded kayak made of polyethylene?
The adhesion to polyethylene is not very good. So, no.
What about acid resistance?
You can find ASTM testing and acid resistance data for our Wearlon products by going here: http://www.wearloncorp.com/index.php/testdoc/Wearlon_2020_Solvent_Chemical_Properties
Got any pro tips on removing Gluv-it from the bottom of an aluminum drift boat? Heat gun and scraper? Would prefer not to grind it off if possible. Hope to apply Wetlander instead. Thanks in advance.
From what I’ve been told from dozens of drift boaters, a heat gun + scraper seems to be the way to go when removing Gluv-it.
I want to coat the bottom of a 1436 jon boat to protect it from abrasion when winching the boat over earthen dikes while duck hunting.
Slickness when pushing through shallow water would be a plus, but my primary need is abrasion resistance.
Is this a reasonable application for your product? Should I use the 2 or 3 part system?
If you had Wetlander on your hull, you would not need to winch the boat over those earthen dikes… you could pull it by hand (probably). Abrasion resistance over time is dependent on how aggressive the aggregate it, how heavy your boat is, and how thick of an application you put on…. ALL coatings will need to be replaced over time in the face of constant abrasion; with Wetlander the touch up is as easy as adding more topcoat. A 3L kit will provide you with more thickness and a longer lasting system over time, but the majority of our customers use 2L kits and are perfectly happy.
Well I have read all comments and reply’s and sounds like you might have what I am looking for. I will give you the Specs of what I have Done so Far and then I will Hit you with the Ultimate Question. I want to Coat a Fiberglass Shell. It is in Great Condition. I have Sanded the shell with 60 Grit and repaired some Small Chips that I found in what is left of the Gel Coat, The Gel Coat is Mostly worn away. I have Washed with TSP several times. Now Her It Is, Its a Fiberglass Swimming Pool. Will one of your Coatings STICK to a Well Prepared fiberglass Pool and Not Wear off in, Lets just say 5 Years. What do you think. Thanks for your Help.
I am about to purchase a order of Wetlander can you provide me with a discount for free shipping?
Sorry, Roger. We are not offering any special deals right now, but like my mom always says “It never hurts to ask”.
Is it possible to put wetlander over existing bedliner paint? Will it adhere or is that going to be a waste of time and money? Thanks
It is possible to put Wetlander over existing bedliner. We have done work with both Line-X and K5 with good results. It is best to apply the Wetlander on bedliner that is freshly applied, but you can still get good results with older/existing bedliner as long as it has been cleaned and prepped properly, and is generally good shape. Please feel free to call me directly to get some details – (518) 469-3612.
I have a wooden drift boat, bottom currently covered with Goop Coat-it in pretty good shape, just a few chips. Will Wetlander Topcoat stick to this, and will it improve slickness?
It is always better to remove the old coating if possible, as putting a new, more flexible coating over an old and failing coating, never really works out well. Take it all off.
Another question: I am building a somewhat unusual ultralight boat, wood frame, heat shrink dacron fabric skin. The skin is usually sealed with latex paint. Do you know if wetlander will stick to dacron fabric and seal it? If so, how much would it likely weigh per sq foot? I presume it will be flexible enough for this application. My interest is because the latex paint makes the dacron lose some of its natural tear resistance, and I am hoping the wetlander will not have that effect. Thanks for your thoughts
I’m not familiar with dacron so I am hesitant to comment in any way. Wetlander is 50% solids. Assuming you put an entire half gallon on your hull, which covers up to 100 square feet, the weight would be 2.5 pounds.
I understand your caution in commenting on an application you haven’t tried yet. Is there anyway to buy a sample size of topcoat smaller than a quart so I can test it out on some fabric? thanks!
Sure; Call me at 518-469-3612, and I can get the guys in the shop to make “baby-kits” for testing.
could this be applied to rv/travel trailer roofs?
Sure, as long as it is not polyethylene plastic. What problem are you trying to solve by coating with Wetlander? I may have some input that would be of value to you.
my project is a 22 foot by 8 foot wide, hull is 6000 series aluminum, full displacement tug style with inboard diesel; getting ready to paint bottom; would your product be suitable?
That depends on why you are coating this tug-style boat… What are you trying to accomplish? I think it would be better if we talk on the phone so I can ask you some questions. Please call me at 518-469-3612 so we can figure out your specific needs.
I purchased a small amount of your three part paint. I’m using small amount at different times. What would be the correct mixing ratio (paint + activator) for custom amounts used?
It is an 11:2 ratio of A:B, or Paint:Activator. The best (and easiest) way to do this is to WEIGH a certain amount of A (paint), and divide that number by 5.5 to get the exact weight of B (activator) to add to that A to catalyze it. I hope that makes sense. Call me at 518-469-3612 if it doesn’t.
Can I put this on my fiberglass boat without flipping it over?
Yes. Just like painting a ceiling in your home, the upside-down prep work and the application is slightly slower, but it is easily done. Just go slow, do good prep, and don’t load up your roller with too much coating (gravity will be fighting you a bit). Take your time.
Hello Scott, Several years ago I Rhino lined my 17′ aluminum Jon boat. It stopped the leaks and held up rather well in the rocky shallow waters of the Susquehanna. Of course I lost a few knots and gained a few more dings but was semi pleased with the results. Now it’s time to do it correctly !
Do I need to remove all of the Rhino liner material ? I grinded and sanded smooth with some original paint and bare aluminum showing ,along with approx. fifty percent Rhino material exposed. This is the last time I want to see my boat upside down in my garage !
Thanks Bobby S.
Can this be used on anSailboat instead of ablative algaecide.
Wetlander is not effective against barnacles, so I would say no; it not an alternative to an ablative algaecide. If you are a freshwater sailboater, or if you are in saltwater but barnacles are not an issue for you, our Speedcoat-49 coating is a great non-stick and is effective against most fouling (algae, zebra mussels, etc.).
where can i get this paint
You can order Wetlander through our online store HERE, or you can call me directly at 518-469-3612.
I have an air boat that has polymer on the bottom. Can Wetlander products be applied over it?
No. Wetlander, and other coatings, will not get good adhesion to UHMW polymer.
I need to recoat the bottom of a 16 foot Hyde drifboat that is already coated with Wetlander. How much will I need?
I think a 2-Layer kit in Half-gallon containers is the best bet for most drift boats.
What spray tip do you recommend using with a gravity fed sprayer when applying Wetlander two coat kit.
I was curious if Wetlander offered any military discount? Thank you in advance.
Sorry. We have no discounts for military or civilians at the moment.
I found this product a few years ago on the internet, and any one looking for a slick product to protect your boat and slide through the water, check this product out. I have had it one my boat for two years now and find it quit amazing. The product is so slippery, I mistakenly undid the winch cable on the trailer on the first launch,(as I always did to put the boat in the water”) and it slid off the trailer while trying to back it into the river. Quite embarrassing really to pick the boat up off the ground, but the product reminded me how slick it is, and takes a beating. It works on multiple types of boats, like aluminum and fiberglass, and easy to apply with a paint roller.
“Wetlander” love your product.
All the best, I passed the information on to 1200 firefighter up here in Canada.
Thanks for the feedback, man! Makes all the hard work worth it.
Restoring a well used 1982 Willies drift boat. Treating it like a classic car! The boat is in great shape. Willie’s gave me the correct era decals which was cool! Putting 2-step Wetlander on the bottom. Had to remove old, cracked Glovit which was quite a challenge. Probably overdid the bottom prep BUT wanted it done right. Yesterday I rolled the primer and it looks great. Exceeded expectations!
My question: my boat is upside down in the driveway. Weather in Oregon is sunny, 85-90 degrees. I want to apply my Topcoat tomorrow when temp is 75 degrees. Under “Optional Forced/Faster Curing” it says to NOT “add heat until 8-plus hours after coating has been room temp curing”. Is it OK that the Topcoat would be curing outside in the sun at 80-90 degrees?
Grants Pass, Oregon
90 degrees is no problem; get it out there.
Would this work on my seadoo spark that has a plastic hull? Just curious because i want one on my aluminum flat bottom also.
I looked at the manufacturer of the Polytec plastic that comes stock on a Seadoo Spark, and I cannot tell exactly what type of plastic is… Wetlander gets great adhesion to ABS plastic, but bad adhesion to UHMW and PE plastic. Knowing what I know of the boating industry, the plastic on the bottom of your Seadoo is most likely a polyethylene plastic, and so I would not recommend Wetlander in that case.
It’s polypropylene, will any of your products work on it ?
Not very well, no. Sorry. The adhesion is just not there.
I am building a wood strip kayak (fiberglassed), would you recommend the 2 part or 3 part kit?
I would go with a 2-Layer kit, but I would put a coat (or two) of the clear coating fiberglass epoxy over the fiberglass first. We want as much thickness between the fiberglass cloth and the water as possible. Now is the time to do it.
Wondering what the best option would be for an aluminium jet boat looking to increase top speed. Would you reccomend the primer and everything or just the top coat ? Or go with the Wearlon speed coat only?
Boat is currently sitting at about 95mph and used exclusively for river racing. have you guys had any success with the coating increasing speeds at this speed.
If your primary goal is the highest possible top speed on the water, and you do not experience any abrasion, I would definitely go with Speedcoat-49. It is our best drag reducing coating, and it’s what our hydroplane racers use… they don’t mess around.
I would NEVER buy your product after watching your dog freaked out and you not giving a dam
Actually, a customer sent us that video. It was his dog, and he assures me that the dog was not harmed in any way.
Just found your product. This stuff sounds amazing. I have a older Kawasaki jetski and I am getting ready to repaint the bottom of the hull. It is fiberglass and gel coat. I have already sanded it down for necessary body work. If I were to use this, how many layers would the 45sqft system yield, how many do you recommend, and are the flash times std 10-15 min between coats ? Will be spraying with HVLP gun. Any recommendations for air pressure for your product ?
The 45 sq ft system (a 2-Layer kit in Quarts) will get you multiple coats of both the primer and topcoat, but it depends on how big the jet ski is, and how thick you apply each layer. A 2-Layer kit will cover up to about 45 sq. ft. at 4 dry mils. I would not use a HVLP gun as they are a bit too small in the tip. I like to use a 3.0 tip. Also, keep in mind that both the Wetlander Primer and Topcoat have silicone in them, so they may “taint” your sprayer… I would suggest getting a cheapo sprayer at Harbor Freight and using that exclusively. I like to spray at approx. 40 psi. Time between coats is dependent on temperature, humidity and thickness of coat. It is ready for another coat when you can rub your finger on the applied coating without it getting stuck (past tacky). It will take anywhere from 10 to 30 minutes, depending on conditions.
I hope that helps. Feel free to call me directly at 518-469-3612.
We have had great success here in the Ozarks with your products on aluminum and fiberglass river boats. We have 3 new boats ordered and will be ordering paint for them soon. One of our guys is looking at putting a coat on his old town Royalex canoe. I was not sure it would adhere??? Thanks
I’m glad the Wetlander is working for you. Royalex is essentially a ABS plastic sandwich, and we get great adhesion to ABS. So, Wetlander will work well on a Royalex canoe.