Wetlander Slick Bottom for BoatsWetlander is as easy to apply as latex house paint.
Due to it’s water based formula, Wetlander is both safe and easy to use. If you have ever painted a wall in your home, you can apply Wetlander to your own boat. Whether you choose to spray it on, or roll it on, you can be assured of the fastest and easiest application available. No more spreading thick, syrupy goop with a trowel all over your hull, hoping that it doesn’t harden up before you are done, and then watching it crack off in chunks after just a few months. With Wetlander, you just roll it on and let it dry.
This is all you need to apply Wetlander:
- A good, high quality roller
- Good quality sandpaper (150 grit and 220 grit)
- A roll of high quality painters tape
- Latex gloves
Application Guides for Aluminum, Fiberglass or Gel-coated surfaces
Topcoat Only Application Guide
Application Guide for Topcoat only
1.) Climate Control Prep: Do not apply on days where relative humidity is above 75%, or the temperature below 50°F. The lower the humidity, the better the cure. We advise trying to apply Wearlon when it is below 60% relative humidity. Dehumidifiers, fans and sunshine are always a plus.
2.) Surface Prep: Make sure the paint on a painted hull is not ablative (sacrificial, leaching) and that it is adhering well to the hull before overcoating with Wetlander. Clean and “roughen” the surface of the hull by sanding with 150 grit paper. This enhances the adhesion of Wetlander to the hull. Wipe down the entire area to be coated with an acetone dampened rag. This removes sanding dust, oils, waxes and any other contaminants that could adversely affect adhesion. Keep wiping with the rag until it comes away clean. Mask your boundaries. Masking tape and registration stickers do not adhere well to a Wetlander coated surface. Plan your masking and state ID stickers accordingly.
3.) Mixing Instructions: Wetlander is a 2-component product. Begin by shaking both the “A” and “B” components violently, at least 30 seconds each. Now, pour the entire contents of component “B” into component “A”. Mix together thoroughly. Only catalyze the amount of coating needed for the project. For example, if you want to only use ½ of the container, simply pour out ½ of the A into a clean container, then pour ½ of the B directly into the A. Mix the A and B until completely blended. Once catalyzed, Wetlander has a workable pot life of 1 hour. (Note: catalyzed coating will gradually thicken through the pot life).
4.) Application: *note- Multiple, thin coats are always better than 1 thick coat.
If Rolling – When rolling the first coat, Wetlander will fisheye or separate –this is normal. The Wetlander will tighten up with subsequent coats for a uniform surface. Simply wait a few minutes and then smooth the coating out with your roller. The fisheye will diminish. Wait 15-30 minutes before applying the remainder of your catalyzed coating. If you can run your fingers along the surface of Wetlander, it is ready for another layer. Continue until all of your catalyzed coating is used.
If Spraying – For the smoothest finish, apply by spraying. Wetlander can sometimes have a slight “orange peel” finish when applied by sprayer. This effect is usually the result of either varying application techniques (a learning curve is expected), or allowing the coating to thicken too far in pot life before spraying.
A foam brush should be kept handy for hard to reach areas and welds, rivets, and seams.
5.) Pull tape within one hour of applying the last coat.
6.) Clean application equipment with water.
7.) Curing: (5-7 day cure) After topcoat completion, wait at least 5 days before putting the boat back into service. If you can press your fingernail into the coating IT IS NOT FULLY CURED YET.
8.) Optional Forced/Faster Curing: (3-4 day cure) Adding heat after application, either by heaters, direct sunlight or other method, will speed up the curing process and will provide a harder coating. If adding heat, do not begin to add the heat until 8 hours after coated surface has been room temperature curing. Then add heat gradually, not to surpass 200 degrees F surface temperature.
9.) Store Wetlander at standard room temperature. Do not allow to freeze. The shelf life for all Wetlander products is 2 months. After the 2 month period, you can extend the shelf life by shaking the containers periodically (every 2 weeks). Some contents will settle and harden on the bottom.
Refer to Wearlon® Wetlander Data Sheet for additional information. Questions? Call or text Scott Hogan – (518) 469-3612
Application Guide for Wetlander 2-Layer Kit
Day 1 –Applying Wetlander Primer
1.) Climate Control Prep: Do not apply on days where relative humidity is above 75%, or the temperature below 50°F. The lower the humidity, the better the cure. We advise trying to apply Wearlon when it is below 60% relative humidity. Dehumidifiers, fans and sunshine are always a plus.
2.) Surface Prep: Make sure the paint on a painted hull is not ablative (sacrificial, leaching) and that it is adhering well to the hull before overcoating with Wetlander. Clean and “roughen” the surface of the hull by sanding with 150 grit paper. This enhances the adhesion of Wetlander to the hull. Wipe down the entire area to be coated with an acetone dampened rag. This removes sanding dust, oils, waxes and any other contaminants that could adversely affect adhesion. Keep wiping with the rag until it comes away clean. Mask your boundaries. *Be sure to double layer the masking tape so you can peel off a layer after primer coat and then peel off second layer of tape after topcoat. Masking tape and registration stickers do not adhere well to a Wetlander coated surface, so plan your masking and state ID stickers accordingly.
3.) Mixing Instructions: Wetlander is a 2-component product. Begin by shaking both the “A” and “B” primer components violently, at least 30 seconds each. Now, pour the entire contents of primer component “B” into primer component “A”. Mix together thoroughly. Mix the A and B until completely blended. Once catalyzed, Wetlander has a workable pot life of 1 hour. (Note: catalyzed coating will gradually thicken through the pot life).
4.) Application: *note- Multiple, thin coats are always better than 1 thick coat.
If Rolling – When rolling the first coat, Wetlander will fisheye or separate –this is normal. The Wetlander will tighten up with subsequent coats for a uniform surface. Simply wait a few minutes and then smooth the coating out with your roller. The fisheye will diminish. Wait 15-30 minutes before applying the remainder of your catalyzed coating. If you can run your fingers along the surface of Wetlander, it is ready for another layer. Continue until all of your catalyzed coating is used.
If Spraying – For the smoothest finish, apply by spraying. Wetlander can sometimes have a slight “orange peel” finish when applied by sprayer. This effect is usually the result of either varying application techniques (a learning curve is expected), or allowing the coating to thicken too far in pot life before spraying.
A foam brush should be kept handy for hard to reach areas and welds, rivets, and seams.
5.) Pull tape (top layer) within one hour of applying the last coat.
Day 2 –Applying Wetlander Topcoat
1) Lightly scuff the Wetlander Primer layer with 220 grit sandpaper. Scuffing the primer layer is a must for good adhesion.
2) Wipe down the lightly hull with a damp rag to remove sanding dust or any other contaminants which may affect adhesion.
3) Shake both the topcoat “A” and “B” components violently, at least 30 seconds each. Pour “B” into “A”. Mix or shake well.
4) Immediately begin applying the catalyzed topcoat coating to the hull with a roller or spray apparatus.
5) Pull final layer of masking off within 1 hour of final coat.
Additional Wetlander Application Info
Clean application equipment with water.
Curing: Allow 24 hrs. of curing after primer coat. Allow 5-7 days curing after topcoat application, before putting the boat back into service. If you can press your fingernail into the coating IT IS NOT FULLY CURED YET.
Optional Forced/Faster Curing: (3-4 day cure) Adding heat after application, either by heaters, direct sunlight or other method, will speed up the curing process and will provide a harder coating. If adding heat, do not begin to add the heat until 8-plus hours after coating has been room temp curing. Then add heat gradually, not to surpass 200 degrees F surface temp.
Store Wetlander at standard room temperature. Do not allow to freeze. The shelf life for all Wetlander products is 2 months. After the 2 month period, you can extend the shelf life by shaking the containers periodically (every 2 weeks). Some contents will settle and harden on the bottom.
Refer to Wearlon® Wetlander Data Sheet for additional information. Questions? Call or text Scott Hogan – (518) 469-3612
Application Guide for Wetlander 3-Layer Kit
Day 1 –Applying Wetlander Primer#1
1.) Climate Control Prep: Do not apply on days where relative humidity is above 75%, or the temperature below 50°F. The lower the humidity, the better the cure. We advise trying to apply Wearlon when it is below 60% relative humidity. Dehumidifiers, fans and sunshine are always a plus.
2.) Surface Prep: Make sure any previous paint on the hull is not ablative (sacrificial, leaching) and adheres well to the hull before overcoating with Wetlander. Clean and “roughen” the surface of the hull by sanding with 150 grit paper. This enhances the adhesion. Wipe down the entire area to be coated with an acetone dampened rag. This removes sanding dust, oils, waxes and any other contaminants that could adversely affect adhesion. Keep wiping with the rag until it comes away clean. Mask your boundaries.
*Its a good idea to triple layer the masking tape so you can peel off a layer after Primer#1, peel off second layer after Primer coat#2 and then the third after Topcoat#3. Masking tape and registration stickers do not adhere well to a Wetlander, so plan accordingly.
3.) Mixing Instructions: Wetlander is a 2-component product. Begin by shaking both the “A” and “B” Primer#1 components violently, at least 30 seconds each. Now, pour the entire contents of Primer#1 component “B” into Primer#1 component “A”. Mix together thoroughly. Mix the A and B until completely blended. Once catalyzed, Wetlander has a workable pot life of 1 hour. (Note: catalyzed coating will gradually thicken through the pot life).
4.) Application: *note- Multiple, thin coats are always better than 1 thick coat.
If Rolling – When rolling the first coat, Wetlander will fisheye or separate –this is normal. The Wetlander will tighten up with subsequent coats for a uniform surface. Simply wait a few minutes and then smooth the coating out with your roller. The fisheye will diminish. Wait 15-30 minutes before applying the remainder of your catalyzed coating. Continue until all of your catalyzed coating is used.
If Spraying – For the smoothest finish, apply by spraying. Wetlander can sometimes have a slight “orange peel” finish when applied by sprayer. This effect is usually the result of either varying application techniques (a learning curve is expected), or allowing the coating to thicken too far in pot life before spraying.
A foam brush should be kept handy for hard to reach areas and welds, rivets, and seams.
5.) Pull tape (top layer) within one hour of applying the last coat.
Day 2 –Applying Wetlander Primer#2
1.) Note – There is no need to sand Primer layer #1.
2.) Shake the “A” & “B” components violently, at least 30 seconds each. Pour Primer#2 “B” into Primer#2 “A”. Mix or shake well.
3.) Immediately begin applying the catalyzed Primer#2 coating to the hull with a roller or spray apparatus.
4.) Pull tape (2nd layer) within one hour of applying the Primer#2 coat.
Day 3 –Applying Wetlander Topcoat-3
1) Lightly scuff Wetlander Primer#2 layer with 220 grit sandpaper. Scuffing the primer layer is a must for good adhesion.
2) Wipe down the hull with a damp rag to remove sanding dust or any other contaminants which may effect adhesion.
3) Shake both the topcoat “A” and “B” components violently, at least 30 seconds each. Pour “B” into “A”. Mix or shake well.
4) Immediately begin applying the catalyzed Topcoat#3 coating to the hull with a roller or spray apparatus.
5) Pull final layer of masking off within 1 hour of final coat.
Additional Wetlander Application Info
Clean application equipment with water.
Curing: Allow 24 hrs after each primer coat AND 5-7 days cure after topcoat.
Optional Forced/Faster Curing: Adding heat after each application, either by heaters, direct sunlight or other method, will speed up the curing process and will provide a harder coating. If adding heat, do not begin to add the heat until 8-plus hours after coating has been room temperature curing. Then add heat gradually, not to surpass 200 degrees F surface temp.
Store Wetlander at standard room temperature. Do not allow to freeze. The shelf life for all Wetlander products is 2 months. After the 2 month period, you can extend the shelf life by shaking the containers periodically (every 2 weeks).
Refer to Wearlon® Wetlander Data Sheet for additional information. Questions? Call or text Scott Hogan – (518) 469-3612
On aluminum bottom halls not painted, sanding bottom hall preferred or prepping bottom with aluminum primer paint so Wetlander stick to.
Richard,
To prep your aluminum hull for Wetlander, you simply need to use 150 grit sandpaper all over the area to be coated, then wipe with acetone. Once fully prepped, you can apply our 2-Layer or 3-Layer kit, which include their appropriate primers; there is no need of an acid-etching primer or anything else. You will have everything you need with your Wetlander kit.
-Scott
It says masking tape and stickers do not adhere well to your product, if I wanted to separate two different colors of wetlander, could I mask the area, apply color 1, unmask and then apply color 2, wiping off any overrun onto color 1? I am assuming that color one would be too slick to let color 2 stick to it right away.
Steve,
That may work, but the transition line will most likely be fairly sloppy. If it was my project, I would apply multiple layers of tape (stacked on top of each other), then apply color #1 on one side, then apply color #2, then pull tape. Your previously stacked layers of masking tape will be in place and ready for subsequent coats of Wetlander. In short, you will have a transition line that is the thickness of the tape you use, and will be uncoated. Does that make sense?
In my opinion, that is the fastest, easiest and “tightest” way to achieve the two-tone look that you are after. Use good tape, and don’t stretch it when applying it.
Give me a call at 518-469-3612 if you want a more detailed description, or if you have any questions.
-Scott
so how do you suggest painting the “tape width unpainted section” i am going to do a two tone line down the out side of the boat as well. use alumahawk jon boat paint above the slick bottom and then around the top edge and into the inside of the jon boat
Ben,
If you always do your topside work first, you can then tape-off onto that area (alumahawk painted) and then apply your Wetlander second. Tape will not stick to Wetlander, so you have to do Topside first. I hope that answers your question.
-Scott
Hey Scott is it still snowing? How long between primer1 & primer 2 applicants for the best results? And do I need to sand no. 1 for adherence to primer 2?
Hey Scott, I’ve had this stuff on the boat for 3 months now. WOW!!!! I’ve been up & down the river, Rapids, rocks, stumps & logs, I’ll never put my engine in shallow drive again. I know I’ve hit some stuff but never felt a thing. For y’all who want to know how slick this stuff is, don’t unhook the bow line till trailer’s in the water. Bam!! What was that. Opps. Thank the Lord my boat’s only 13′ and the jet a light 2 cycle & the bow didn’t come all the way off. Pulled on pretty easy. Looking forward to building another boat this winter. Hey where’s all the pictures I sent you? I’ve been looking for them. Keep selling, darn good stuff. DON’T rush it y’all, let it dry.
Robert,
I remember you! Thanks for the kind words. Keep on the lookout for your pics… They may pop up soon.
-Scoot
With a 3-Layer kit, you do not need to sand between Primer #1 and Primer #2. Primer #1 has no “slick stuff” in it, so sanding is unnecessary.
-Scott
I live in the Houston Tx area, I am having a hard time finding consistent days with recommended climate. seems like it wants to rain about every 3 days… If I apply during a dry day but it rains a couple days later (boat is in a garage with the door closed) is that a problem? the forecast says humidity doesn’t get about 73% even on the rainy days. I am a little anxious to get this done. the White Bass run is about to start… and if I told them to wait until my boat was ready, I don’t think they would listen 🙂
On john boat Lowe 1860 pathfinder do I have to sand paint off frist on hall ? Thank you
It is important to make sure your Wetlander is on clean and fresh aluminum (or, for glass hull people with the same question, clean and fresh gelcoat). So, yes it is better to sand all the old factory paint off. However, if it is a brand new boat, and you just can’t bring yourself to taking it all off, you can apply Wetlander to a factory paint job. However, you need to understand that any Wetlander you put on that factory paint job is 100% dependent on that factory paint to stay on your hull; so if you trust the adhesion and flexibility of your factory paint, go for it. But I advise taking the old stuff off.
-Scott
Can it be applied to plastic bottom boats (Craigcat)
Johnny,
If the boat is made of roto-molded plastic, or polyethylene (PE), then no. Wetlander does not get good adhesion to those plastics. ABS- we get great adhesion to ABS, but not PE.
-Scott
Scott,
I had the bottom of my 16-foot fiberglass Hyde drift boat done last fall. I can’t believe how slick it is and definitely have to remember to drop the anchor when we hit the gravel bar. Awesome product.
Unfortunately, I had to have a repair done to the bottom later in the spring. I’m trying to determine how much primer to get. I understand I need to use primer for the repaired gel coat. If I want to spruce up the rest of the bottom, what surface prep do I need to do for the rest of the bottom where it already has Wetlander is was not repaired? Do I need to prime the whole bottom or just the repair areas? Should I wipe it down with acetone? Can I put Wetlander on Wetlander?
Thanks – Scotty
Olympia WA
Scotty,
If there is just a relatively small area that needs to be touched up, I tend to go with just topcoat in that area. You can put Wetlander on Wetlander with the proper prep work: The prep is to just lightly sand the area, wipe it clean with acetone, and then roll-on more Wetlander topcoat. Multiple coats will help to alleviate fisheye and make it look better. You need to lightly scuff existing Wetlander because once it cures, it becomes a non-stick surface that will repel liquids, including a liquid version of itself; hence the scuffing and wiping.
I hope that makes sense. Let me know if it doesn’t.
-Scott
What tip size is recommended for applying Wetlander 2 layer kit with a gravity fed sprayer.
Dewayne,
Most guys who spray like to use a 2.5 to 3.0 tip. Basically, your setup needs to be able to spray a thick latex paint. If it can do that, it should have no problem spraying ANY of the Wetlander products; primers and topcoat.
-Scott
Living in Fort Myers Fl. the humidity is much higher than 75% most days…Would like to use your product but might not be a good idea?? No garage available…not sure what I will do…
Greg,
Most of our customers live near water and have high humidity… just do the best you can. Pick a sunny, breezy day to do the application and maybe allow yourself some extra cure time. It’ll be okay.
-Scott
My 15 ft. Gheenoe presently has an epoxy & graphite mix on the bottom of its outer hull. How would I prep this surface for application, and which kit (in terms of number of layers) would you recommend?
Greg,
For Gheenoes, I like a 2-Layer kit in Quarts. Typically, we want the Wetlander adhering to your actual hull and not on another coating, so I would recommend removing that old coating. However, if you trust the epoxy/graphite mix, and it is in great shape, you can apply the Wetlander right over the top of it by simply scuffing the old coating with 150 grit sandpaper, and then wipe it all clean with acetone on a rag. Then apply your Wetlander kit.
-Scott
My Gheenoe has a fresh coat of Line-X and I’ve applied the primer over the top of it and have given it two days to dry. I’m working in my garage at about 65 degrees and 60%+ humidity. I can barely scratch the primer with my finger nail so I’m thinking I’m ready for the top coat. Is there a measure of hardness that I should be looking for in the primer before I apply the top coat?
Barry,
The fingernail test is a good one. If it feels nice and hard, then it is. If it feels at all soft, wait another day (or two if needed) before applying your Topcoat.
-Scott
The first boat I did from scratch I let it se for 7 days, in the fall of the year, each oat. Hard as nails. Take all the time you can. Don’t rush it. I’ve hit rocks, sand bars, trees not even a scratch on the undercoat.
Does wetlander work on epoxy coated wood?
Chris,
Yes, Wetlander will get great adhesion to epoxy coated wood.
-Scott