Wetlander on Widowmaker Mudboats


Q:  What colors does Wetlander come in?

A:  We have 24 different colors to choose from. You can find a Color Chart here.

Q:  Does Wetlander work on fiberglass or gelcoat?

A:  Yes!

Q:  Do I need the Primer?

A:  Wetlander Primer is not absolutely necessary, but it is important for the overall longevity of the coating;  a boat with Wetlander Primer + Wetlander Topcoat will have more protection, and a slicker surface for longer, than a boat with just Wetlander Topcoat.  It’s just that simple.

Q:  How do I apply the paint to the bottom of my boat?

A:  On the average aluminum (or fiberglass boat), the basic directions are as follows:  Roughen up the bare aluminum, or a previously painted hull, with 150 grit sandpaper.  Wipe the scuffed surface with acetone to remove any oils, dust or foreign contaminants.  Then apply the Wetlander Primer using a roller or a sprayer.  Let the Wetlander Primer dry for at least 24 hours for the toughest bottom coat possible.  After the Wetlander Primer Coat dries, lightly roughen the surface of the primer coat with 220 grit sandpaper.  Again, wipe down the freshly roughened primer coat with a damp rag to remove foreign contaminants.  Now apply the Wetlander Topcoat with a roller or sprayer.  Wait at least 5 days to ensure the toughest and slickest boat bottom.  Enjoy the feeling of  slippin’, slidin’ and ridin’ through the world faster than ever before.  (If you are using the Wetlander 3 Layer Kit, click here for Wetlander Duro-Slick 3 Layer Application Guide).

Q:  How long before I can get my boat back in the water?

A:  5-7 days, depending on weather conditions, and most of that time is spent watching the  bottom paint dry.  We recommend beer for watching paint dry.

Q:  What if I have a fiberglass boat?

A:  For a fiberglass or gel-coated boat, follow the same instructions as with aluminum hull boats.

Q:  What do I do with any leftover amounts of  Wetlander Primer or Wetlander Topcoat?

A:  First, DO NOT put Wetlander on surfaces that are going to be walked or sat upon.  People, dogs, and equipment will slide around and could cause damage. Put it on any surface of your boat that you want to keep clean and slippery.  Try putting it in your live well, or the side walls.  Put it on a pirogue, a canoe or kayak.  Gheenoe, landscaping spikes, paddleboard, etc.

Another option is to catalyze only half of your container of Wetlander, so that you can save some for touch-ups later on.  Remember, Wetlander is very easy to touch-up; there is no need to flip your boat and re-coat the entire hull.  Just reapply Wetlander in any spots that have been damaged while the boat is on it’s trailer.  Easy!

Q:  Should I use a sprayer or a roller to apply your bottom paint?

You can use either a sprayer or a roller to apply Wetlander.  If you spray, the coating will look more “professional”.  If you roll, it will look rolled on.  We prefer rollers because they are easy to use and everyone has some experience with them.  Since our bottom coatings are water-based, cleanup is a simple wash with warm water while it is still wet.  If it drys and/or cures, you will have to use solvent and scrub it off.  If you use a sprayer, make sure to flush and clean it out immediately after use.

Q: Can I put Wetlander on top of UHMW poly?

A: Unlike other paints/coatings that cannot adhere to UMHW poly or provide minimal acceptable adhesion strength, Wetlander does in fact have a fair degree of adhesion to 50 grit abraded poly. However, the question remains “Does Wetlander adhere tenaciously enough to withstand the rigors of all-terrain abuse in airboating?”. We here at Wearlon are optimistic, but still in the testing phase. As of right now, Wetlander on top of poly does not pass our strict Quality Control guidelines and, as a result, we cannot officially advocate the application of Wetlander on UHMW poly. But, it may very well work for you and so it will have to be “try at your own risk”, knowing there is a risk of delamination.

Or, you can make a “small” investment and try the Corona Treatment

Q:  I have a welded aluminum jet boat and am looking for a bottom coating to help keep it from sticking to rocks and gravel bottoms while under way or landing on shore in shallow water. How abrasion resistant is you product? Will it scrape off when pulling up an gravel beaches. Is there a company in Canada that sells your product? Any chance of you sending me a small sample of aluminum that has been coated so I can see how tough it is?

A:  Ken,
Send your address via via email (scott.hogan@wearloncorp.com) and I will send you a coated panel for evaluation.

Wetlander is capable of handling most anything you throw at it, especially when you use Wetlander Primer, too. Multiple primer layers = tough, durable, and long lasting coating. That being said, ANY liquid hull coating is going to wear away after prolonged repeated abrasion cycles. Wetlander works by being so slick, the force of impact on stones or submerged logs is actually vectored-off a bit, lessening the impact and saving the coating (and your hull). If you do take damage, or develop “hot spots” over time, Wetlander is easy to touch-up. Just lightly sand the affected area, then reapply. You don’t even need to take your boat off the trailer in most cases.

We are the manufacturer and we ship to Canada directly all the time.


Q:  Has anyone tried this on jetski’s? I rent them in Florida and am looking for something to make the bottom of the ski’s more durable. Any thoughts?

A:  Wetlander can absolutely go onto a jetski for protection.  We have dozens of customers who use it on jetski’s, rental companies and weekend warriors.  It protects the fiberglass and looks great.  It’ll make the ski easier to pull up onto trailer rails, too.

     Mark on July 30, 2012 at 10:52 pm said: [Edit]
Q:  I have an old 1968 16′ aluminum boat its a great boat except it takes in a little water thru rivets on the bottom of the boat will wetlander help seal the bottom?
A:  I have been getting this question a lot lately, and here is my answer. Yes, Wetlander will help stop the water from weeping through small rivet pops and small welding/seam gaps. HOWEVER, stopping leaks is not what Wetlander is designed to do, nor would I ever recommend it as a leak stopping product.
My advice is do it once and do it right: Weld those holes shut, or, use a marine grade sealant/adhesive that works well with aluminum (5200 by 3M is one) and plug up the holes. THEN coat it with Wetlander and you should have no problems with slow leaks.
Great question, Mark.

Q:  Hey! I see a question and answer regarding jet boats on inland rivers, but would appreciate clarification and/or confirmation . I run a 19′ jet boat, really intended for big white water, on Montana free stone rivers, fishing and getting around. We ‘park’ by running up on gravel banks and bars, regularly power through very skinny stretches where the gravel and rock bottom goes “tickety tickety tick” on the hull at speed, sometimes intentionally power over gravel bars on our own wake, and occasionally hit a solid rock while drifting, and even under power now and then. It is a very tough welded hull, made for abuse, but I like the “slick” concept. Will your product hold up reasonably in this application, and can one fill in gouges with a little sanding and then just painting on some more finish to the damaged spot? It currently is covered in anti-fouling paint, which looks like hell at this point, and isn’t necessary in our fresh water rivers. Is Wetlander a product I should consider for the re-do? Thanks!

A:  Lefty,

Wetlander would absolutely improve the performance of your jet boat in all the scenarios you just described. You will be able to FLY over dilapidated beaver dams, sand bars and other jump-worthy obstructions without losing your momentum and speed. You will easily re-launch your boat from your improvised parking areas. You will easily slide over all the obstacles that make jet boats so much fun!

That being said, dry gravel bars, sandy beaches, and oyster shoals are some of the most abrasive environments on the planet. If you send a thick aluminum hull, filled with heavy-set guys and a few coolers of beer and ice (who likes warm beer?), zipping along at mach speed, I promise that whatever you have on the bottom of your boat, whether it’s UHMW polymer or Wetlander, it’s going to get torn up over time.
In fact, with Wetlander the ONLY way to get it off of your hull is to wear it away with constant abrasion. As long as the Wetlander is on your hull you will be enjoying higher speeds, easy slidin’ and increased overall performance. How long it stays on there is dependent on how you captain your boat.

If you do get some damage to the Wetlander layer, just hit the hot spot with some 150 grit sandpaper, wipe it clean, then roll on some more Wetlander Topcoat. No need to dre-do the whole bottom; just touch the areas that need it, while the boat is on the trailer. Easy.

So, will Wetlander work better for you than anti-fouling? Absolutely, Yes.
Will it get damaged in the process. Probably. But who cares? It’s easy to fix.

And dude, you have a Jet Boat


Q:  Hey just wondering if there are any issues adhering to bondo or jbweld…I’ve got a couple dents on my old aluminum semi-v that I’m in the process of stripping.

A:  You should have no issues with getting great adhesion to JB Weld or Bondo. Personally, I wouldn’t put Bondo on anything that was going to be submerged in water…


54 Comments on “FAQ

    • Brian,

      If your HVLP has a 3.0 tip and can reliably push latex paint, then yes, you can use a HVLP. Whatever system you use, test it with some old latex paint from your garage. If it sprays without clogging or spitting, go forward with confidence. I ALWAYS have a roller handy, just in case….

      Another point to consider, these Wetlander coatings have silicone in them. If you are using an automotive gun, the silicone could cause application problems/blemishes in the future.


  1. I have a fiberglass drift boat that I am considering sanding and having Armor coat or Rhyno liner spray on truck bed liner (the smooth coat type) applied to the bottom of the hull for protection against drifting into sharp rocks. The reason is because it’s thick and hard and deadens the harsh sound of like a fiberglass cracking sound and will also bump over sharp objects. I was also considering applying the wetlander product for a secondary protective coating and adding a smooth slick hull bottom over the bed liner product. My question is will the wetlander product work applied to the Armor coat or Rhyno liner products and still give the same strength without chipping, flaking or pealing ?

    • Mark,

      We have applied Wetlander to Line-X and K5 (both are polyurea coating definition, like Rhino and Armor) with success. To get the very best adhesion to these polyureas, it is best if you can apply your Wetlander immediately after applying the polyurea. Most polyureas are receptive and “open” to another coating for about 12 hours after application. So, shoot the polyurea, then have your Wetlander ready to go and shoot (or roll) it on your hull within an hour, if possible.

      The adhesion of Wetlander to fully cured polyurea is good; but it is much better when applied to fresh polyurea.

      I hope I have made that clear. As always, you can call me directly at (518) 469-3612 if you would like to go over this in more detail.


  2. Awesome! I’m excited to put in it on as you recommended right after bed liner material is sprayed on. What do you recommend as far as primary before wetlander? Should I use any primer or single or the two-part primer application?

    • Mark,

      A 2-Layer kit on top of the bedliner would be great. That being said, we have a customer in PA, Premium Protective Coatings, that spray the K5 polyurea, then follows that with straight Wetlander Topcoat. It is your choice. A Wetlander Primer+ Topcoat kit will last longer than topcoat by itself.


  3. I painted my boat off the trailer in a heated garage at about 70°. How long before I can put it back on the trailer?

    • Adam,

      I like to wait as long as possible; 5-7 days is best. However, you can put it back on the trailer sooner, if you HAVE to. Just understand that an uncured coating is a soft coating. The best test for deciding if it is ready for trailering is to press, scrape, and scratch the coating with your fingernail. If it makes a dent, you should wait another 24 hours. If there is no damage or impression, go ahead and trailer it.


  4. i have 20 foot aluminum flat bottom boat how much product do i need to order?

    • Earl,

      A 20 ft flat bottom would usually do better with gallon sized containers, rather than half gallon containers, especially if you plan on coming up the sides at all (which I highly recommend).


  5. I just bought the 90 SQ ft topcoat for my 15 ft riveted alumacraft jon boat… I recently restored it and painted it with Alumahawk primer/topcoat. My sprayer spattered a bit so the finish looks a bit like truck bed liner… It actually looks pretty cool, but i think the bottom needs to be smoother and slick. Just to make sure, I should be able just to sand down the Alumahawk primer and use your topcoat? Should I put more than one coat? if so, how long do I let it dry between coats?


    • Phil,

      I would actually prefer you apply the Topcoat directly to the clean, bare aluminum, or our Wetlander Primer, rather than another product. If you apply over the top of another product, you are 100% reliant upon the adhesion of THAT PRODUCT to keep the Wetlander on your hull. It’s your boat, you should do what you think is best, but that is my advice.

      You should apply the entire container in as many coats as it takes. Your 15 footer will get a good two coats, maybe more. Get it all on there where it can do some good. You apply coats in the same way you paint a wall; once the first coat is dry to touch, apply the next. Repeat until it’s all gone. Clean your roller, or sprayer, then pull your masking tape. Let cure. That’s it!


  6. seems everyone likes your wetlander product. i am interested in the handling of the boat. does the wetlander treated bottom cause any sliding as u turn left or right while under power?

    • Charles,

      I have heard of some lateral sliding with jet boaters and airboaters. Airboaters like to slide, and jet boaters over steer to compensate. Any other boat with a deep keel or longitudinal ribs will stick in a turn with no sliding. The first trip on the water is the learning curve. Take it slow.


  7. Will this product increase the speed of my aluminum 14′ boat. If so by how much approximately.

    • James,

      Every boat is different. Some guys have a very slight bump in performance, others swear they get huge jumps in performance. Here is a quote from an email that just received an hour ago – Drew in OH who coated his jonboat – “Used wetlander on bottom/nose and about 4 inches up the sides and the buoyancy pods. Went from about 14mph to about 20-21 in choppy water.” These types of emails come in fairly often, but I would not call a 6 mph jump “common” to our customers. Most guys get better performance in shallow water, launching and loading, and a bit of an improvement in overall speed.

      I hope that helps.


  8. what is the viscosity of primer and top coat wondering what tip size is recomended for spray application Thanks Keith

    • Keith,

      A tip size of 3.0 seems to work best for both Wetlander Primer and Topcoat.


  9. hi, I’m interested in purchasing some of your product but have a few question. I have a painted bottom aluminum boat tunnel hull outboard jet made for fresh and saltwater. Is this a saltwater application as well. If you product is good as I;ve been reading then this seems like an option for me. The other question I have is my trailer has carpeted bunks and this really is hard on painted surfaces due to sand, rocks etc and just abrasion from taking the bottom off and even more so in boat ramps where water level is low. Will this protect my boat bottom from the bunks. I’m really concerned with the saltwater and your product as a barrier layer to protect against salt and corrosion to aluminum. Any help to these questions would be great. thanks.
    chris from va

    • chris bodkin
      July 23, 2017
      Your comment is awaiting moderation.
      hi, I’m interested in purchasing some of your product but have a few question. I have a painted bottom aluminum boat tunnel hull outboard jet made for fresh and saltwater. Is this a saltwater application as well. If you product is good as I;ve been reading then this seems like an option for me. The other question I have is my trailer has carpeted bunks and this really is hard on painted surfaces due to sand, rocks etc and just abrasion from taking the bottom off and even more so in boat ramps where water level is low. Will this protect my boat bottom from the bunks. I’m really concerned with the saltwater and your product as a barrier layer to protect against salt and corrosion to aluminum. Any help to these questions would be great. thanks.
      chris from va

      • Chris,

        Wetlander works great on jets, tunnel-hulled and otherwise. You will have no problem with Wetlander in salt water, just don’t expect it to repel barnacles, because it can’t! It will help with corrosion and electrolysis on your hull. Abrasion with sand on the bunks is definitely a concern. Those carpeted bunks really hold sand well, and that in turn will wear away at whatever coating is on the hull. If it was my trailer, I would probably replace the carpet with strips of UHMW polymer as it is lower friction material and cannot harbor sand like carpet does. I’ve also heard many horror stories about aluminum salt water hulls on carpeted bunks and the corrosion associated with the carpet. These stories were specific to pontoons, but it is still cause for concern. I hope that helps.


    • Myra,

      We ship everything direct to our customers from our manufacturing facility in upstate New York. You can visit our online store here https://wetlander.myshopify.com/collections/all.

      Most of the people in WA and OR with Wetlander are boat builders and they use it for their custom builds.


  10. Can you compare/contrast the two layer kit vs the three layer kit? I am not sure which kit to buy. I have both an aluminum SeaArk jet skiff, and an aluminum landing craft boat. What is the benefit of going with the three layer kit over the two layer kit?

    • Nathan,

      A 3-Layer kit is a 2-Layer kit, but with a super-tough primer added first. I realize that may be confusing, so I will explain it visually:

      2-Layer Kit = Wetlander Primer + Wetlander Topcoat

      3-Layer Kit = Industrial Primer + Wetlander Primer + Wetlander Topcoat

      Does that make sense? In short, a 3-Layer kit gets you 33% more coating and should last you longer.


  11. Scott
    I put Wetlander on my fiberglass river jet boat and an aluminum paddle Jon a few years back, it has wore well and improved the use of both. I recently ordered a quart for touch up. I have sanded the scratched areas, do I need to wipe with acetone rag like I did on original application. I used a brush it came out as smooth as glass. Good stuff, several buddies have joined the Wetlander family. Thanks

  12. bought a used drift boat. Bottom was coated with something previously (Gluvit?) I have chipped off the loose pieces. Do I need to completely remove all the old material before applying Wetlander?

  13. I am interested in painting my 24′ pontoon trailer BUNKS 2×6″ treated lumber currently covered by deteriorated carpet) with WEATLANDER slick paint. Good idea or not? Carpet rips and has to be changed often and I rather paint than put carpet on. (That is the 1st time I’ve ever uttered …. ‘i’d rather paint’ ha ha!)

    • SSP,

      Yes, you can apply Wetlander to treated bunks. Just make sure there is no hardware left in bunks, and give it a full week to cure before putting your boat back on the trailer. If you coated the ‘toons with Wetlander AND the bunks, that boat would FLY off the trailer at the launch!


    • Forrest,

      It all depends on the level of abrasion; in an area with oyster bars, not very long. In sand flats, longer. In fluffy silty areas, even longer. It all depends on how heavy your boat is, how “grinding” the substrate is, and how often you visit very abrasive areas. The good news is, Wetlander is very easy to touch up: Just get a quart of Topcoat in your preferred color, rough up the existing Wetlander with some sandpaper, wipe away the dust, and apply your new Topcoat. Done.


  14. Can your product be rolled successfully onto the bottom of a fiberglass boat without turning it over?

    • Mitch,

      Yes, it can. It is more difficult and uncomfortable, but it can be done. The hardest part is the surface prep and getting to all the necessary areas while it’s still on the trailer (or on blocks). The act of doing the actual painting is just like painting a ceiling; just take your time and don’t load up the roller with too much coating, otherwise it’ll drip back down into your face. Feel free to call me if you would like to go over some details. you can reach me at 518-469-3612.


  15. Scott,
    We are going to do 3 new alweld boats. they will have factory paint on them. After we do the coating how long should we leave them upside down before putting them up right and on the trailer to complete rigging them? We plan on 10 days to two weeks before water. Likley have plenty of heat but humidity may be high. Also how much product should we need there are 2 20′ 53″ and one 20′ 56″ Thanks

  16. Once Wetlander is cured is it resistant to chemical cleaners such as Star Brite Aluminum Cleaner? (Contains sulfuric acid)

    • Paul,

      I would advise against using any strong solvents or acids on your Wetlander-coated surface. Feel free to test a very small area to see if it has impact, but my general rule is to avoid solvents/acids in general.


  17. I’m going to start repairing a fiberglass DB boat. My plan is to add another layer of glass over the entire bottom using epoxy resin. I haven’t decided on which coatings yet, but definitely a two part epoxy paint. First question is will your product adhere to epoxy resins? Also looking at your two layer system, would that primer replace the primer I would normally lay down on this repair, then lay down the wetlander top coat?

    • Gregg,

      Wetlander will adhere to epoxy resins. I would continue to use the 2-Layer kit on top of that epoxy resin to get as much thickness between the fiberglass cloth and the water as possible.


  18. Can I apply Wetlander with the boat hanging or do I need to turn the boat over? If I can leave it hanging which would be better spray or roll?

    • Michael,

      You can apply Wetlander with the boat hanging above you; you do NOT need to flip it over. Just like when painting a ceiling in your house, take your time and understand that gravity will be fighting you a bit, so do not load your roller up with tons of coating… it’ll tend to drip back into your face.
      Personally, I think rolling is faster and easier, especially when working underneath the boat.


  19. Can this be applied in stages. Like doing half of bottom letting it dry, them later time do other half? Will this bond to each other at seam of the two painted at different times ?

  20. Can this be applied to a polyethylene canoe? I have an older Old Town Guide 119 and a newer Saranac 146 that I am looking to coat. Would this work?

    • Not really. It is very difficult for any coating to get good adhesion to PE or roto-molded plastic, and Wetlander is no exception. The adhesion is just not good enough for me to recommend it. Sorry.


  21. Howdy Scott, I recently purchased a two layer kit for my 14′ jon boat. I am thinking of using an Aluminum Boat Etch wash to increase Wetlander adherence. Is there any reason you would not recommend that?

    • Hi Ben,
      I took a look at the SDS and TDS for the Aluminum Boat Etch and Wash from Totalboat. It looks like it is a strong acid in an alcohol carrier. If it was just acid, I would be fine with it. However, in the product literature it says this: “Aluminum Boat Etch Wash cleaner and conditioner etches the surface then rinses away completely, leaving a surface that’s chemically clean and ready-to-paint, with temporary protection against corrosion and oxidation.” That “temporary protection” usually means it leaves some kind of residue that could inhibit the adhesion of the Wetlander. We have had problems in the past with “conditioners” causing adhesion issues. For that reason, I would avoid using the Totalboat product. It would probably be fine, but I don’t want any issues, and I am sure you don’t either.


  22. Hey Scott, I have a 1448 Jon and am wanting to add your product to the bottom. From my math (which is very bad haha) it comes out to 56 square feet. I want to get the 2 layer quart kit, but wanted to make sure that it would be enough to fit the bottom of my boat as the 2 layer half gallon kit would cover way more than I will need. Do you think the 2 layer quart kit will suffice?

    Thank you!


    • Travis,

      Our Quart 2-Layer kits voer up to 45-50 square feet, so you are cutting it really close. It will most likely cover, but your layers will be a bit thinner than average.


  23. I use Clackacraft boat and oars. Any chance I could apply this to the blades and get some rowing relief? Maybe some scuffing, priming and a couple of coats of Top Coating. I’m gonna do the whole belly I might as well do the oar blades too. Your comments please? Thanks, Chuck Nichols

    • Chuck,

      Yes you can do that. I don’t love Wetlander on bare wood, because every now and then it begins to fail with expansion and contraction in two different directions… That being said, if you are already putting Wetlander on your hull, you should have enough for an oar experiment.
      Now: If the oars had a clear coat epoxy like West Marine or Total Boat over them, and THEN you put on some extra Wetlander Topcoat, that would be a much safer application. Bare wood though….


      • Thanks Scott. Would the coating adhere to the plastic oars after scuffing or do I need to paint first? thanks again for your fast response.

  24. I purchased your product about a year ago and have not applied it yet. Is it still good even though it’s been more than your recommended 2 months?

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